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Continuation
of the report «Beat the Georgian, so that others were frightened»
Pankis
gorge is old frightening point of Russian for anti-Georgian and anti-Chechen
propagation. It is situated in Ahmetskoi district of Kakheti, that in East
Georgia. Here are populated Kakhetians (Mountainous-Georgians) and Kists (Chechens,
who from time immemorial live in Georgia), tushins. People are engaged in
viniculture, cattle breeding, and making dairy products. Tushins are born
shepherds. Pankis men, as essential feature hereby for Caucasians, like to hunt
in the summer with guns vanish in mountains. To conceal ones sin, criminal
elements come to live in Pankis. But tell me a point, where they are not present?
After
the beginning of the second Russian-Chechen war in Akhmetskoi district were
populated 5-7 thousand refugees from Chechen Republic, basically of women,
children, old men, and invalids.
«They have located near to Kisti villages. They underwent destruction in
Chechen Republic; therefore, they escaped and came here. It is a pity for them.
We would live richly, if we would accept them better. We are neighbors», -
speak Kakhetians. Simple peasants do not press in political subtleties. For them,
the main thing is to observe the ancient Caucasian law of hospitality.
«It is the truth, that in Akhmetskoi district are treated wounded Chechen
fighters», - I have asked in the market of one elderly inhabitant Akhmety with
Kakhetiian cap from black felt.
«And even if it is so, what from this? To give out the person without hand or
legs to fighters so that they may beat him, and torture, whether this is humanly
or Christianly?»
«But you see Chechens -
Muslims...» - I have tried «to provoke» Kakhetians.
«And we do not offer pig to them», - the old man joked.
«We do not want to quarrel with Russia. However, we do not wish to bring
neighbors at difficult time. We do not overlook, that we are orthodox since
IV
century.
Our ancestors have accepted Christianity when Slavs lived in dugouts in woods.
But you see Moslems honor the Christ. They speak, what exactly Isa will kill
Dajjal before Day of Judgment», - he told seriously. Seeing, that I am a
visitor, my interlocutor persistently spoke in Russian. To tell the truth, I was
surprised with theological knowledge of the simple man. However in Kakheti
rather intellectual peasants frequently come across. In village Shilda, for
example, I had a conversation, serious conversation about Japhetic languages in
a context of theory Marr with elderly grapes culturing farmer, Elgujei.
Аhmeta
- usual for Kakheti district center. There are two-floored houses behind which
vineyards are located. In the market speak in - Georgian. But the Chechen speech
is some times heard also. Frequently on eyes come across women in traditional
Muslim clothes and men in caps from green velvet. Approximately the same picture
is in the market in Telavi (ancient capital of Kakheti, where there is a palace
of tsar, Irakli II).
In
the past spring between Kistis and Kakhetians was observed small opposition.
Georgians roughly complained with loss of fellow villager and even have taken in
hostages some Kistins. The conflict managed to be settled. Now of the intense
situation in Kakheti remind only armed squads of policemen on departure of
cities and district centers.
Not
a secret, that in Georgia are kidnapped businessmen, officials, and members of
parliament. Have stolen the brother of known football player, Kaha Kaladze in
the spring. The Russian mass media connect kidnappings to the Chechen problem
and assert, that captives will take in Pankis gorge, where there «are training
camps of insurgents». Inhabitants of Kakheti believe, that people are kidnapped
with criminal elements on instigation of special services. Namely whose? The
most different assumptions are put forward, at times fantastic. Some suspect
Shevardnadze of all, others - Putin. It is possible, that kidnappings have only
criminal character. You see, steal those who richer.
It
is quite probable, that captives at all do not take out for limits of Tbilisi as
to go with a dangerous cargo in a province by posts of militia - the big risk.
If conversation goes on kidnappings, it will not prevent to remind, that in
Russia people steal not less often, than in Georgia. And «bases of
insurgents», that is superb equipped training and sports halls, shooting ranges,
where they get necessary skills of bulls from OCG (organized criminal groupings),
are located in Moscow, Peter... Yes in each Russian city! So all conversations
on terrible Pankis gorge are conducted in Russia only to intimidate
childlike naive and on - baby the hysterical Russian inhabitant b «Georgian-Chechen
terrorist threat».
Pending
the Apocalypse
That
at once is evident in Georgia as it is religiousness of the population. Passing
or passing by a temple, Georgians necessarily draw on them triple sign of
the cross. Any table will not do without a toast for orthodox sanctity. However,
inter-confessional pressure in Georgia is not felt. In Tbilisi completely
freely pass ceremonies of manifests-Armenians, Judies, Moslems.
But
the question is not about the external side of religiousness. Georgians as I
have understood, live pending the Apocalypse. In ancient monastery Nekresi,
that near to small town Kvareli, we met the monk, Russian by nationality, but
born and grown up in Kahetia (he is a descendant of colonists, who lodged in
Kakheti during tsar). «Under the doctrine of our Church, Georgia - terrestrial
destiny of the Virgin. Presviataya Deva will not leave her in trouble. After
five years in Georgia, prosperity will begin, and it becomes that place, where
will gather just before Terrible Court. So in Hagiography, it is told!" -
the monk told. To some extent similar moods are peculiar to many Georgians.
Relatives even have asked me to inquire about condition of relics of Serafim
Sorovky: under the legend, before Judgment in the afternoon, this sage will
revive in flesh and will start to preach.
I
am not declined to explain all phenomena by material reasons. However, it will
not be sin to tell, that Georgian apocalyptic moods follow from that economic
and social situation, which has developed in republic: there is no light, gas,
majority of the enterprises and establishments are closed, people sit without
money and work. Prospers only to know new things. It is insulting, that ancient
traditions of viniculture die. In Kvarel, seven years ago, the factory was
closed, where was made well-known red wine
«KinDzmarauli».
However,
despite of all these difficulties, in Georgia, there are people who develop
traditions of the Georgian culture. In Tbilisi, we have got acquainted with
Kahoa Zarnadze, who under ancient Caucasian recipes makes daggers and swords,
and also revives the Georgian fighting arts, with Ygo Dekanozishvili, who
produces icons from septum enamels, with crew of Levan Metreveli - these
people are engaged in molding of church bells.
Eh,
Russia - mother!
Georgians
look upon Russia ambiguously. On the one hand, they are ready to be friends with
Russian, on the other hand - look at Russia bewildered and insult.
«At
the end of XVIII
century,
Russian have motivated Iranian Shah Аga-Mohammed
Khan for attack on Georgia, and he burnt out Tbilisi, in 1921, 11th
army force established councils in our republic, Bolsheviks have given Russia
the primordial Georgian grounds from Sochi up to Tuapse, during war in Abkhazia,
Russian army was at war against the Georgian. Now the Russian policies name
Georgia as the center of the international terrorism. For what Russia hates
Georgia - not clear! " - I heard such arguments in Georgia repeatedly.
«As
soon as the situation becomes aggravated, orthodox Russia was always against
orthodox Georgia!» - Georgians are distressed. To wait from Russia for display
of orthodox solidarity - it is naive. If in the leadership of Russia, there were
real Christians, they have set up kind relations not only with same believers of
Georgia, but also with Muslim peoples of Caucasus. You see, old man of
Akhmetskoi was right: between Moslems and Christians is more in common than in
opposition. Also that is the most important, those and others struggle with the
same enemy - with Satan. But Russia is governed completely not by divine
servants now...
In
spite of the fact that in Tbilisi again are circles on studying Russian, the
young generation of Georgia badly speaks Russian. Somehow my nephews have asked
mother: «Why on frescos in Siena (cathedral of the Georgian orthodox church -
D.J.) Russian letters?» «When Georgia joined Russia, Russian erased the
Georgian frescos and have painted cathedral with new», - she answered. «Mum,
if Russian are such barbarians, what does force us to learn their language?» -
children were perplexed. Then children have seen TV films «Features of
Russian national hunting» and «Brother». «Yes these Russian - lunatics,
drunkards and murderers. We shall not learn their language!» - they declared
after that. Reasonings of my daughter-in-law about Pushkin, Lermontov, Tolstoy
and Dostoyev did not affect them.
The
unrecognized status
Two
weeks, rich on impressions, we flew back quickly. From Georgia, it would not be
desirable to leave even now, when this country is experiencing big complexities.
What to do? Back, not to meet the major on Verkhniy Lars, we have gone
through territory of South Ossetia. Our fellow travelers appeared two older
persons, husband and wife. They arrived to Georgia from Rostov without visas.
Peacekeepers and militiamen on check post received fines from them: on hundred
Rubles from each one.
Driving
to Tskhinvali, at once you understand: Georgia has remained behind. Everywhere
inscriptions in Russian: «wholesale of Beer», «Gasoline is qualitative and
inexpensive»... In capital of «illegal republic» the eye continually
encounters the half-destroyed houses thrown by owners. In suburb of city, I have
paid attention to a bar with the name «Megobroba» (that in translation with
Georgian – «Friendship»). May my God, make this word «friendship»
sometimes reality in live.
In
front of the tunnel between South Ossetia and Northern, militia post is located.
The driver - Ossetin has taken our passports and has gone to show these to
militiamen. In some minutes, guy has approached to our car in the grey form.
«Zhvania,
let’s go with me», I had to proceed in premise of the post, where I was
surrounded with three policemen.
«From you one thousand Rubles - otherwise you will not go further»
«In honor of what should I pay! My documents are in order. This is
Georgian visa. It is valid till November, 15»
«Overlook
about the Georgian visa. Here other republic - South Ossetia. Pay!»
«And whether is it not part of Georgia?»
«Do not philosophize, said the big-bellied undersized cop. – if you will not
pay - we shall send you back to Tbilisi. Or we shall put you in a cellar as the
violator of border».
«Why do you, Zhvania, frequently go for a drive abroad», - other cop muttered,
checking visas in my passport.
«I go on work. I am a journalist». I have shown the certificate of the worker
of press.
Cops
exchanged glances. But the fat man was not appeased: "All the same
let him pay! He is the Georgian journalist"
However,
senior of the group has returned passport to me.
«Chechens with you are not present?» he suddenly asked.
«No, You saw our passports».
«Carry on your journey».
«Do not take offence. The Chechen Republic is close – thus we check. A little
that...» - They began to justify that forwarded me inside the post.
«Yes, all right!» - I have waved away. We have gone further. Customs
inspection has passed without problems. And in one hour have arrived to
Vladikavkaz.
Bribe
Only
we have unloaded things from the car as a number of militiamen came.
«What is in the canister?»
«Domestic Kakhetian wine»
«It is illegal to carry more than five liters. Pay the fine».
«Where is it written, that more than five liters to carry is illegal?»
«You want to familiarize with the rules? Let’s go to branch!»
Half an hour, we argued with this cop. In a result, he was content with 2-litre
bottle of young Kakhetian.
At
station, we have got into branch of road militia. The attendant checked up our
documents, things, and pockets and told:
«Guys you are decent. Give bribe and go»
«For what is this bribe?» - We were indignant.
«If it was for something, I would have taken penalty from you».
But we did not give bribe.
In
the evening, alcohol-transporter firm «Ossetia» carried us to Russia. In the
wagon of mineral waters were seated 20 persons of contract soldiers. They came
back from the Chechen Republic. On road hired fighters drank, at stations sold
boots to buy some more vodka. «In collective farm, there is no work. It is
better to be killed in Chechen Republic, than to die in houses from starvation»,
- frankly started speaking one of the hired soldiers from the Voronezh region by
name Vasia. I
peeped through the window. I saw floated steppes, where once wandered Skifs,
Alans, Pechenegs, and Polovtsians. Where are you, the real Russia?
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